Sunday, November 26, 2017

A SWISS CHEF'S CAREER: THE GOOD, THE BAD, THE YUMMY (2)


CHAPTER 2
  
With the help of my parents and my boss Herman Himmel, we assured a continuation of my goal to become a chef. We found a first class boutique hotel in the French part of Switzerland to complete my apprenticeship as a cook. That was my chance to learn French beside cooking. Living there and going to school there I had no choice but to speak and write French. I'd say 85% of the population in that part of Switzerland could not speak Swiss-German!

Hotel Restaurant "Les Deux Sapins"
 This is a picture of the original building when I arrived
in 1962


After celebrating my certification for 1 week, my mother and father drove me on May 1, 1962 to Montricher and dropped me of at the Restaurant Les Deux Sapins.

Le Patron (Owner, Chef) was very nice and spoke some broken German and I new that will help me. At that point I was very nervous and insecure of myself. Only 19 and for the first time at least a year away from home! I remember getting a room assigned, getting changed in my uniform and start working the same day!

Believe me, the beginning was tough! Especially not  being very good in school at the French language and then not using it for 3 years, I was totally lost!

But this lasted not very long. I met this awesome person who started his apprenticeship a year earlier. His name was Heinz, he was born and raised in Bern, he was here for the same reason as me , to become a chef.

We where room mates and became best friends. Being here a year he spoke French perfectly and also could show me the ropes of this new territory I found myself in. 


The hotel got renovated in 2002 and even changed the name to
"Auberge Au 2 Sapins"
 The window with the open green shutters was my room for nearly two years. Of course I had to share again with my “Oberstift” Heinz.



The working schedule is totally different in a restaurant than I was used to. We had to work from 9am to 2pm, rest for 3 hours and work from 5pm to 9 pm. Usual I was off on Monday, and also every Wednesday we had to take the train all the way to Lausanne studying at the Ecole Culinaire. Of course, it is without saying, on Friday, Saturday and Sundays you can't count with your 3 hour rest in the afternoon, There was always to much prep to do. Also I can’t think of one day on these weekends we finished at 9pm. I know this sounds kind of tiring and harsh but believe me nobody ever complained or was even tired. We had on awesome team and for some reason we were always happy and the adrenalin kicked in when you see all this happy guest leaving and getting lots of compliments. This satisfaction will be a part of your salary all your life.



Heinz and I had to take this train to Lausanne and back every Wednesday
for one and a half years starting April 1962

Going to school on Wednesday was like a day off to to us, the two hour trip to Lausanne was, rain or sunshine, always very pleasant with beautiful scenery. We had to change trains in the city of Morges on the lake of Geneva. Of course we took advantage of that and always grabbed some fresh coffee and croissants from a famous bakery across the street from the train station. Unforgettable memories!
My buddy Heinz



All trade apprenticeships last 3 years in Switzerland, but since I was on my second I got 1.5 year credit and believe me this one and a half years flew by! Unfortunately, something happened!

Part of the apprenticeship is keeping a controlled recipe book, menu writing, purchasing log, and food cost control. I had no problem with the menu writing because it was fairly simple.  Purchasing and food cost are mostly numbers and I had no problem with that.  Different was all the recipes. I have to admit, my recipe book, written in French, was a total disaster. It was full of wrong words and mistakes. At that time in Switzerland the culinary teaching was based around Auguste Escoffier’s “La repertoire de la cuisine”.  This books we have to present on our final exam and are one quarter of our final grade.

To make the story short, I met a girl and she offer to rewrite my entire recipe book and I accepted it gladly! On September 18th we had the theoretic exam and turned in our books .

On September 25, 1963 I had my final exams in the culinary school in Lausanne. There where 6 of use and at 7am we each had to pick a different 4 course menu out of a basket, write a order list, go get all the ingredients from the storeroom and start cooking. They left us by ourselves, only occasionally checking if we needed something. We where permitted to help each other and I remember clearly making all 6 dessert. At 2pm to 3pm we each had to present our dishes to 7 judges sitting in a big empty room like kings! Very intimidating.

So far so good, I came out on top and was praised by all 7 judges. After we could take a break to 5pm and were asked to be back for our grade!!

Finally we were all sitting there anticipating receiving our cook diploma and to get ready to go party. Everybody got called up to get their diploma and left the room. Everybody was gone but me, I knew something was wrong and I was very nervous. I was called and informed and interrogated at the same time about my recipe book. They assumed it belong to somebody else. Believe me, I had the most attractive recipe book of all the apprentices and that was the problem, I think, that's why they compared it with my other paper work.

I was exactly 20 years old and demoralized at that moment. My explanation was not accepted and the book has to be written in my own hand writing.  (What a joke, in today's age, with all the computers, some kids don't even know how to hand write anymore, ha)

Anyway, I had to extend my apprenticeship another 6 months!! and rewrite the book.

My boss and owner working in the rotisserie at the hotel 
seating capacity was only 18 people, very exclusive and reservation only.

The main restaurant had 60 seats and we had a
banquet facility for up to 150 people 


I finished the last 6 month in the Buffet de la Gare in Lausanne. I started November 5th and finished April 15 1964.  There is nothing worth mentioning about this short time of my career, but there was one very sad event I will never forget! Only in my second week there I walked home and there where vendors in the street selling news papers . (They never sell news paper on the street before or after this time in Switzerland) At that time the whole World got informed about John Fitzgerald Kennedy’s assassination! Everybody, not just America , loved him!

I finely received the diploma without anymore exams or tests,
I only had to present that faithful, idiotic recipe book!
 And I worked 6 months without getting payed.

          It's time again for the recipe:

It would definitely be the montricher dressing but that recipe is already in this blog.  Montricher Dressing was loved by the people then and it seems to me they still love it now. I remember from my time there of a big successful dish was the Croute aux champignon. We used Champignon, chanterelles, morels, boletus or any other available mushroom according to the season or personal preference.

   Fry the french bread slices in butter until golden brown.  Quickly saute some mushrooms and a little chopped shallot seasoned with parsley and thyme.

   Deglaze the pan with a little dry white wine and reduce slightly. Add heavy cream and reduce until sauce is getting thick. Finish with a pinch of curry powder and some Cognac.  Pour over the fried bread.

         
Always delicious!



Monday, November 6, 2017

A SWISS CHEF'S CAREER: THE GOOD, THE BAD, THE YUMMY (1)





CHAPTER 1

The house I grew up in until I was 16 years old

 From the other side of the river Reuss

The view from our balcony 


              When I was 13 years old, a restaurant owner, a friend of my father, gave me a chance to work in his kitchen on the weekends. The Restaurant Limmattal,  in Vogelsang, a small village in Switzerland, was famous then for countless wedding parties. In the beginning they put me in charge of French Fried Potato, including peeling, cutting and blanching them.  (No frozen or other prepared items in 1957).  Soon I progressed to producing vanilla, strawberry and chocolate Ice Cream. Eventually I made most the ice cream desserts including Cup Denmark, Peach Melba, Ice coffee, coupe Romanoff, etc, etc. Typical old fashioned desserts most all of the restaurant served in Switzerland. I loved the work there and it  definitely helped me with the decision to pursue my chef’s career.


On the foreground to the left is the small village of Vogelsang

During all this I went to the Bezirksschule in Turgi for 2 more years, not a very happy time for me, Heinz, my older brother was some kind a genius and all the learning in school came to him very easy. He passed every subject with flying colors and of course my parents expected the same from me!
It didn't happen! Heinz went of to the University of Zürich and I needed some help from Tudors in French, Algebra and music (violin). This helped and I graduated in the better half of my classmates.
Not very impressive but acceptable 

               Finishing High School I was 6 months short of being 16 the required age to start en apprenticeship in Switzerland.
                I went to work in a factory that produced indoor, outdoor lights of all kind selling them all over Switzerland. My father was a big shot there (operation manager for the model carpentry). That was probably the reason all my co-workers respected me and some even requested me for assistance in installing lights in new buildings all over Switzerland. I spent time in Bern, Lausanne and even a whole week in Geneva. I did have a concrete plan to start my apprenticeship as Confiseurs-Patissier on November 1, 1959 but I have do admit having second thoughts after likening my job in that factory. I could have become an installer of lights. Ha! Spending time cooking in the restaurant Limmattal whenever I had time set my mind straight.





Starting My First Apprenticeship

October first 1959 I was 16 years old, and I got a learning permit from my parents to drive. I saved enough money to take driving lessons and 3 weeks later I had my driving license!

On November 1959 I moved out of my parents house to live on the premises of the “Himmel” Pastry shop in Baden, Aargau Switzerland.



The Tea Room "Himmel"

All bake goods, pastry and confiserie is produce fresh daily

The ultra modern Bake shop is in the basement

The renovated retail shop

Still the same Place and products as in 1960!!
of course with some necessary renovation.


        My dormitory was in the same building on the 4th floor and I shared the room with my “Oberstift” an apprentice who started 2 years before me. The establishment was and still is rated the # 1 Pastry Shop in the state of Aargau and they take in an apprentice every 2 years.

         I worked from 7am to 5:30pm Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri and Sat. Every other week on Sunday morning I had to deliver croissants, French pastry or tortes to VIP customers in the town of Baden on a bicycle with a basket! Not an easy job because there are lots of steep hills.

        Every Wednesday I had to go to trade school in Aarau, a 25 minute train ride. That day you learned general occupational knowledge, decorating skill, pricing, sugar and chocolate work.

        This was my live for the next 3 years until April 1962. after a two day examine I became a certified Patissier / Confiseurs, and not like at high school before, I graduated with honor on top of my class!


 My certified Patissier / Confiseur diploma 

My proud results
# 1 in the Class


       Here comes the big question, why spending 3 years studying pastry if your goal is to become a chef?
        Number one, it will give you a huge advantage in the future, it helps you to find better jobs , bigger earnings, better menu writing, it trains you to follow recipes, and you are able to teach your employees.

        I remember, after researching with my Parents at that time, that the path I took was recommended by most every successful chef. Now thinking back, they had been absolutely right.

        And now before I go to the next chapter here is a simple but famous Himmel recipe anybody can attempt!

KIRSCH TRUFFLE 

3 dl heavy cream
300 gr dark couverture
550 gr milk couverture
2.5 dl Kirschwasser

Boil the cream and add the chopped chocolate, let melt until smooth, press on parchment paper with pastry bag marble sized dots and let cool in refrigerator until firm. When firm roll them between  your hands until round like marbles. You will need about one pound of tempered dark chocolate to cover each piece and place them on a Icing rack. (A Tennis racket will do too, just make sure it's clean!) You will have to move them over the rack just before they get hard to get a real nice design on them.


Make sure chocolate temperature stay between 90 and 98 F 


It's a bonus if you find yourself a helper!


Kirsch truffle, second on the top


































Saturday, October 21, 2017

A SWISS CHEF'S CAREER: THE GOOD, THE BAD, THE YUMMY





PROLOGUE

     I've been asked so many times about my professional life. Also many questions about pros and cons of a chef’s career, especially from young people who would like to cook for a living. This is not an easy task to explain, what it takes to devote yourself to become a service oriented person.

     think I should start with the pros!
     You will have a lot of joy, recognition, and satisfaction in pleasing, surprising, and overwhelming your guests. One of my main reasons to become a chef was the adventure of traveling. You can find yourself a job anywhere in the world. (Most other jobs are limited to countries and special regions). You have a chance to see other cultures and learn foreign languages. It made me very proud being able to communicate in 5 different languages in my life as a chef, especially after being one of the worst pupils in school in learning French! One great thing, once you are established, everybody in the hotel business knows you and you never have to look for a job again. You will always get lots of offers and it will be up to you to make the right decision. Beside, you will probably have that dream and good feeling to one day build your own establishment.

     On the negative side:

      There a lot of cons to this profession, starting with your willingness to work ungodly hours and most every holiday and being daily under pressure to timely serve your hungry costumers. You will not get wealthy either. Yes, you can make a descent living but unless you go into television you never will pass middle class. You will have to get very lucky like me to find a special partner in life, if you desire to start a family. She or he has to be ready to relocate any time a new job offer comes around and if you have children it will even get harder. Believe me, if you like to be successful you have to relocate quite often.

     I will give it my best effort and jot down all my memories starting with  my first food service experience in my early teens all the way to the end of my chef's career. I guess it could be bit boring to some, so just ignore it and don't judge me, after all, I am not a writer. Expect a new entry every few weeks in the near future.



We been in this together since 1976 











Friday, March 17, 2017

SAINT PATRICK DAY PARTY




Thursday, March 16th

                                      We combined  the March birthday party for Ed with ST Patrick day. That made it easy for me to put together a menu.

                                       And here it is:


Beverage

Chardonnay, Champagne, Jack Daniels, Bacardi and coke

Dinner
( Irish themed)



Shillelagh Sticks
served with Guacamole

Lamb Terrine
minted green goddess sauce

*
Corned Beef and Cabbage
Boiled potatoes and baby carrots

*
Chocolate Bread Pudding
Kiwi Cream Sauce
Vanilla and Strawberry Ice Cream
Blood Oranges
Grand marnier flavored Cream Anglaise



                          Donna helped me with the resource to find a Irish appetizer and came up with Shillelagh Sticks. It is fairly simple to prepare and taste great with your appertive. 



There are bread sticks wrapped in bacon and coated with
rosemary flavored parmesan cheese



                I made a Lamb Terrine wrapped in Puff Pastry and I served it with a creamy montricher dressing mixed with crushed mint leafs and parsley. The trick is to have a green sauce enhancing the terrine flavor and mint goes pretty good with lamb, and I was right. I incorporated the lamb meat with fire roasted red peppers, chanterelle and pistachios.



The corned beef and cabbage was very traditional and nothing
out of the ordinary!




Now the chocolate bread pudding is something only I can accomplish!!
( unless you are willing to spend a lot of time)

                       First of all I had to bake 3 different pound cakes, one butter, one orange and one lemon. I used the same receipt for all tree except one with lemon juice and rind and one with orange juice and rind and of course a touch of food color. Mix the diced pound cakes in a bread loaf with quartered pralines and ad some fresh orange slices. Fill with a royal cream ( cream, eggs and sugar) and bake for 1hour on low heat or until it is firm.
                       To serve, I made strawberry and vanilla ice cream and cream anglaise with Grand Marnier. And because it was St Patrick Day I fixed a green Kiwi cream.

                        You have to take my word for it, everything was delicious!!

                   There was one technical difficulty, Ed was not feeling very well and he had to leave a little early ( before dessert), but I promised him to deliver his dessert the next day whenever he is ready. 




PROST!! UNTIL NEXT TIME


Saturday, February 25, 2017

80 BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION (SWISS CHEESE FONDUE RECIPE)



                       To bring you up to date with what has been happening here.

On July 26, 2016 Dr. Ed Roach, our neighbor and dear friend celebrated his 80th birthday.
He invited us for dinner at the Brick Top Restaurant, a great place in Frontenac, a posh part of St Louis. We all had a wonderful meal and since I also baked him a Birthday cake we decided to go home for dessert. During dinner we handed Ed his birthday present Donna and I had come up with. As you know, it's difficult to find a present for a person who has practically everything. So Donna made him a booklet with lots of "good" advice, pictures and monthly calendars with a promise to have another party on or around the 3th Thursday at each month. So far so good, we had a successful dinner party every month since then.

July 26, 2016

Joyce, his beautiful wife keeps Ed young. Nobody would
believe he's celebrating his 80th

Marty and his wife Pat were driving us to the Restaurant in their van,
a treat by itself


Chocolate mousse cake, Ed's favorite

Since I just started up the blog again I hadn't taken many pictures, but I kept some notes in a file.

      Just a quick refresher:      
August 18th 2016 we enjoyed
Ceviche
Grilled Filet Mignon
Meringue glace 

*

September - Thursday 15th 2016
we prepared to fly to Switzerland for vacation and we had not
much time for a dinner party.
we went to Ed and Joyce's house and had some finger food
"Mini Beef Wellington with Bearnaise"

*

October - Thursday 20est 2016
Just coming back from Switzerland we had of course
Raclette with all the trimmings
Ice Cream

*

October - Monday 31st 2016

We could not miss Halloween, our yearly tradition and also anniversary
of our friendship.
We always enjoy hors d'oeuvre:
salami coronets, smoked salmon, steak tartar
shrimp cocktail
Pralinees

*

November - Thursday 17th 2016
Mixed greens
Vol au vent fruit de mere
hot chocolate melting cake

*

December 15th 2016
Alaskan King crab Crepes
Wienerschnitzel
Apple Strudel, cream anglaise
*
Because it was close to Christmas we celebrated in style with
Lemon Drops Martini prepared by the bartender Donna

January 26th 2017
Find all the details in the blog
posting on February 13, 2017
Called "Tree years later"




February - Thursday 23th 2017

                            And now today's happening. I am planing these little gatherings with an appropriate  theme like I chose cheese fondue because February is the coldest months in the year and most people eat fondue when it's snowing and freezing outside. Unfortunately this did not worked out because it is 75 degree outside, the warmest February ever. Oh well we still enjoyed it!


Getting ready for another fun evening!


Appetizer

Grilled avocados filled with dill flavored shrimp salad



Entree

Swiss Fondue



Dessert

Soufflé glacé Grand Marnier
Vanilla sauce with cognac






Everybody liked the shrimp salad


I had the feeling the fondue wasn't for everybody's liking, I better
make a Fondue Bourguignonne for Ed next time



but great success with the dessert, it never fails!!


another happy evening




Recipe

Swiss cheese Fondue

serves 4 people

                                           300gr Emmentaler Cheese  grated
                                           300gr Gruyere Cheese grated    
                                           4 dl    Chardonnay
                                           8  each medium size fresh Garlic coarsely chopped
                                           3  tbsp cornstarch
                                           2  oz Kirschwasser
                                           1  tsp ground black pepper 
                                           1 loaf of Bread cut in 1 inch cubs 

                               bring wine, garlic and pepper to boil in fondue pot, ad grated cheese and let melt
                               mix cornstarch and Kirschwasser and ad to 
  boiling cheese mix to thicken. Serve immediately on fondue set with lit sterno to keep cheese hot.


 

Until next time............







Friday, February 17, 2017

JUST ANOTHER DAY (DAUPHINE POTATOES RECIPE)



                                 Tuesday was Valentine's day.  As I understand it is a dedicated day for Love. I think I speak for Donna too when I say it is like every other day around here. But I have to admit, I upgraded the Dinner just a little bit and I believe it was total success!

To start with a little Rum Chata aperitive


Sauteed Rainbow Trout topped with steamed King Crab meat and Hollandaise
broiled green asparagus in brown butter
Dauphine Potatoes


Donna was surprised

Needless to say she loved it.


BONUS
Recipe for Dauphine Potatoes

Serves  6

                                    3 each medium sized potatoes peeled , cut in large pieces
                                     boil in water with little bit of salt until soft 
                                     strain and let the steam dry the potatoes for 2 to 3 minutes
                                     then ad the potatoes to the Pate a choux and mix
                                     season with salt, pepper and seasoning powder like Aromat
                                      
                                
                    Tip:
                           It is important that you mix potatoes and Pate a choux when they're both hot, and  
                            it is best to start the Pate a choux when the potatoes are boiling

                                     2 dl Water
                                     90 gr butter
                                     1 teasp. salt       

                                      bring to a boil in saucepan and add
                                      
                                      150 gr flour

                                       steady stirring let cook for 1 minute 
                                       move  to mixing bowl and ad

                                       4 to 5 Eggs, one at the time. 

                     To check: 
                                 split dough with a spatula and if the dough merge together very slowly 
                                 it will be ready . check after you added 4 eggs to see if you need one more                                   

                                 When ready, fill dough in pastry bag with star tip, dress on your
                                 finger tips and let trop in 350* frying oil. Cook until golden brown.