Sunday, November 26, 2017

A SWISS CHEF'S CAREER: THE GOOD, THE BAD, THE YUMMY (2)


CHAPTER 2
  
With the help of my parents and my boss Herman Himmel, we assured a continuation of my goal to become a chef. We found a first class boutique hotel in the French part of Switzerland to complete my apprenticeship as a cook. That was my chance to learn French beside cooking. Living there and going to school there I had no choice but to speak and write French. I'd say 85% of the population in that part of Switzerland could not speak Swiss-German!

Hotel Restaurant "Les Deux Sapins"
 This is a picture of the original building when I arrived
in 1962


After celebrating my certification for 1 week, my mother and father drove me on May 1, 1962 to Montricher and dropped me of at the Restaurant Les Deux Sapins.

Le Patron (Owner, Chef) was very nice and spoke some broken German and I new that will help me. At that point I was very nervous and insecure of myself. Only 19 and for the first time at least a year away from home! I remember getting a room assigned, getting changed in my uniform and start working the same day!

Believe me, the beginning was tough! Especially not  being very good in school at the French language and then not using it for 3 years, I was totally lost!

But this lasted not very long. I met this awesome person who started his apprenticeship a year earlier. His name was Heinz, he was born and raised in Bern, he was here for the same reason as me , to become a chef.

We where room mates and became best friends. Being here a year he spoke French perfectly and also could show me the ropes of this new territory I found myself in. 


The hotel got renovated in 2002 and even changed the name to
"Auberge Au 2 Sapins"
 The window with the open green shutters was my room for nearly two years. Of course I had to share again with my “Oberstift” Heinz.



The working schedule is totally different in a restaurant than I was used to. We had to work from 9am to 2pm, rest for 3 hours and work from 5pm to 9 pm. Usual I was off on Monday, and also every Wednesday we had to take the train all the way to Lausanne studying at the Ecole Culinaire. Of course, it is without saying, on Friday, Saturday and Sundays you can't count with your 3 hour rest in the afternoon, There was always to much prep to do. Also I can’t think of one day on these weekends we finished at 9pm. I know this sounds kind of tiring and harsh but believe me nobody ever complained or was even tired. We had on awesome team and for some reason we were always happy and the adrenalin kicked in when you see all this happy guest leaving and getting lots of compliments. This satisfaction will be a part of your salary all your life.



Heinz and I had to take this train to Lausanne and back every Wednesday
for one and a half years starting April 1962

Going to school on Wednesday was like a day off to to us, the two hour trip to Lausanne was, rain or sunshine, always very pleasant with beautiful scenery. We had to change trains in the city of Morges on the lake of Geneva. Of course we took advantage of that and always grabbed some fresh coffee and croissants from a famous bakery across the street from the train station. Unforgettable memories!
My buddy Heinz



All trade apprenticeships last 3 years in Switzerland, but since I was on my second I got 1.5 year credit and believe me this one and a half years flew by! Unfortunately, something happened!

Part of the apprenticeship is keeping a controlled recipe book, menu writing, purchasing log, and food cost control. I had no problem with the menu writing because it was fairly simple.  Purchasing and food cost are mostly numbers and I had no problem with that.  Different was all the recipes. I have to admit, my recipe book, written in French, was a total disaster. It was full of wrong words and mistakes. At that time in Switzerland the culinary teaching was based around Auguste Escoffier’s “La repertoire de la cuisine”.  This books we have to present on our final exam and are one quarter of our final grade.

To make the story short, I met a girl and she offer to rewrite my entire recipe book and I accepted it gladly! On September 18th we had the theoretic exam and turned in our books .

On September 25, 1963 I had my final exams in the culinary school in Lausanne. There where 6 of use and at 7am we each had to pick a different 4 course menu out of a basket, write a order list, go get all the ingredients from the storeroom and start cooking. They left us by ourselves, only occasionally checking if we needed something. We where permitted to help each other and I remember clearly making all 6 dessert. At 2pm to 3pm we each had to present our dishes to 7 judges sitting in a big empty room like kings! Very intimidating.

So far so good, I came out on top and was praised by all 7 judges. After we could take a break to 5pm and were asked to be back for our grade!!

Finally we were all sitting there anticipating receiving our cook diploma and to get ready to go party. Everybody got called up to get their diploma and left the room. Everybody was gone but me, I knew something was wrong and I was very nervous. I was called and informed and interrogated at the same time about my recipe book. They assumed it belong to somebody else. Believe me, I had the most attractive recipe book of all the apprentices and that was the problem, I think, that's why they compared it with my other paper work.

I was exactly 20 years old and demoralized at that moment. My explanation was not accepted and the book has to be written in my own hand writing.  (What a joke, in today's age, with all the computers, some kids don't even know how to hand write anymore, ha)

Anyway, I had to extend my apprenticeship another 6 months!! and rewrite the book.

My boss and owner working in the rotisserie at the hotel 
seating capacity was only 18 people, very exclusive and reservation only.

The main restaurant had 60 seats and we had a
banquet facility for up to 150 people 


I finished the last 6 month in the Buffet de la Gare in Lausanne. I started November 5th and finished April 15 1964.  There is nothing worth mentioning about this short time of my career, but there was one very sad event I will never forget! Only in my second week there I walked home and there where vendors in the street selling news papers . (They never sell news paper on the street before or after this time in Switzerland) At that time the whole World got informed about John Fitzgerald Kennedy’s assassination! Everybody, not just America , loved him!

I finely received the diploma without anymore exams or tests,
I only had to present that faithful, idiotic recipe book!
 And I worked 6 months without getting payed.

          It's time again for the recipe:

It would definitely be the montricher dressing but that recipe is already in this blog.  Montricher Dressing was loved by the people then and it seems to me they still love it now. I remember from my time there of a big successful dish was the Croute aux champignon. We used Champignon, chanterelles, morels, boletus or any other available mushroom according to the season or personal preference.

   Fry the french bread slices in butter until golden brown.  Quickly saute some mushrooms and a little chopped shallot seasoned with parsley and thyme.

   Deglaze the pan with a little dry white wine and reduce slightly. Add heavy cream and reduce until sauce is getting thick. Finish with a pinch of curry powder and some Cognac.  Pour over the fried bread.

         
Always delicious!



Monday, November 6, 2017

A SWISS CHEF'S CAREER: THE GOOD, THE BAD, THE YUMMY (1)





CHAPTER 1

The house I grew up in until I was 16 years old

 From the other side of the river Reuss

The view from our balcony 


              When I was 13 years old, a restaurant owner, a friend of my father, gave me a chance to work in his kitchen on the weekends. The Restaurant Limmattal,  in Vogelsang, a small village in Switzerland, was famous then for countless wedding parties. In the beginning they put me in charge of French Fried Potato, including peeling, cutting and blanching them.  (No frozen or other prepared items in 1957).  Soon I progressed to producing vanilla, strawberry and chocolate Ice Cream. Eventually I made most the ice cream desserts including Cup Denmark, Peach Melba, Ice coffee, coupe Romanoff, etc, etc. Typical old fashioned desserts most all of the restaurant served in Switzerland. I loved the work there and it  definitely helped me with the decision to pursue my chef’s career.


On the foreground to the left is the small village of Vogelsang

During all this I went to the Bezirksschule in Turgi for 2 more years, not a very happy time for me, Heinz, my older brother was some kind a genius and all the learning in school came to him very easy. He passed every subject with flying colors and of course my parents expected the same from me!
It didn't happen! Heinz went of to the University of Zürich and I needed some help from Tudors in French, Algebra and music (violin). This helped and I graduated in the better half of my classmates.
Not very impressive but acceptable 

               Finishing High School I was 6 months short of being 16 the required age to start en apprenticeship in Switzerland.
                I went to work in a factory that produced indoor, outdoor lights of all kind selling them all over Switzerland. My father was a big shot there (operation manager for the model carpentry). That was probably the reason all my co-workers respected me and some even requested me for assistance in installing lights in new buildings all over Switzerland. I spent time in Bern, Lausanne and even a whole week in Geneva. I did have a concrete plan to start my apprenticeship as Confiseurs-Patissier on November 1, 1959 but I have do admit having second thoughts after likening my job in that factory. I could have become an installer of lights. Ha! Spending time cooking in the restaurant Limmattal whenever I had time set my mind straight.





Starting My First Apprenticeship

October first 1959 I was 16 years old, and I got a learning permit from my parents to drive. I saved enough money to take driving lessons and 3 weeks later I had my driving license!

On November 1959 I moved out of my parents house to live on the premises of the “Himmel” Pastry shop in Baden, Aargau Switzerland.



The Tea Room "Himmel"

All bake goods, pastry and confiserie is produce fresh daily

The ultra modern Bake shop is in the basement

The renovated retail shop

Still the same Place and products as in 1960!!
of course with some necessary renovation.


        My dormitory was in the same building on the 4th floor and I shared the room with my “Oberstift” an apprentice who started 2 years before me. The establishment was and still is rated the # 1 Pastry Shop in the state of Aargau and they take in an apprentice every 2 years.

         I worked from 7am to 5:30pm Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri and Sat. Every other week on Sunday morning I had to deliver croissants, French pastry or tortes to VIP customers in the town of Baden on a bicycle with a basket! Not an easy job because there are lots of steep hills.

        Every Wednesday I had to go to trade school in Aarau, a 25 minute train ride. That day you learned general occupational knowledge, decorating skill, pricing, sugar and chocolate work.

        This was my live for the next 3 years until April 1962. after a two day examine I became a certified Patissier / Confiseurs, and not like at high school before, I graduated with honor on top of my class!


 My certified Patissier / Confiseur diploma 

My proud results
# 1 in the Class


       Here comes the big question, why spending 3 years studying pastry if your goal is to become a chef?
        Number one, it will give you a huge advantage in the future, it helps you to find better jobs , bigger earnings, better menu writing, it trains you to follow recipes, and you are able to teach your employees.

        I remember, after researching with my Parents at that time, that the path I took was recommended by most every successful chef. Now thinking back, they had been absolutely right.

        And now before I go to the next chapter here is a simple but famous Himmel recipe anybody can attempt!

KIRSCH TRUFFLE 

3 dl heavy cream
300 gr dark couverture
550 gr milk couverture
2.5 dl Kirschwasser

Boil the cream and add the chopped chocolate, let melt until smooth, press on parchment paper with pastry bag marble sized dots and let cool in refrigerator until firm. When firm roll them between  your hands until round like marbles. You will need about one pound of tempered dark chocolate to cover each piece and place them on a Icing rack. (A Tennis racket will do too, just make sure it's clean!) You will have to move them over the rack just before they get hard to get a real nice design on them.


Make sure chocolate temperature stay between 90 and 98 F 


It's a bonus if you find yourself a helper!


Kirsch truffle, second on the top