Tuesday, May 21, 2019

A SWISS CHEF'S CAREER: THE GOOD, THE BAD, THE YUMMY (11)



CHAPTER 11


Acapulco Princess Hotel
was considered  # I  Hotel in the world in the 1970s


                        I was offered the Executive Sous Chef position at the Acapulco Princess Hotel.  Whenever you get  offered a new and better job in your career you are feeling very happy, excited and eager to start. But there is also dreading the task of the resigning, facing your bosses, coworkers and friends. A task easy to accomplish  but not when you where treated well and respectful the entire time you worked for them. The Houston Warwick Hotel, Mr Warwick, and Teddy Stauffer where great to me for the last 2 Years and believe me I felt bad and like a trader when I resigned. To my surprise they all congratulated me for my new job and wished  me all the best in my future endeavor. My friend Heinz decided to return to Bern, Switzerland. Xaver left for Brasil and opened up his own Pastry shop! After this I felt relived and ready for the Princess Hotel. On Octobre first, my birthday, I reported to work at the hotel.

                          Since the executive housing in the Princess was still under construction I had to find a house for rent because I had to give up the beautiful Apartment at the Villa Vera Hotel. The Princess Hotel is located between the airport and the town Acapulco and the only Building around. So I found successfully a house in town about 20 minutes from my new job. 
            
                          Executive chef  Hans Plunke from Germany was very experienced  and great to work with. The Hotel was still closed and finalising the construction in all areas. we been busy hiring a kitchen crew and stewards around 250 people. We spend time  with menu writing, organizing the kitchen, equipment testing, employee training, food testing, etc etc.

                            We also had to open two cafeterias for all the starting employees. One for the hourly people and one for the executives. They been located in the basement and accessible through tunnels from both buildings. For the hourly we had a buffet and in the executive one we had a menu plus special every day.

                        This hotel with over 1000 rooms was gigantic! It took not long before I realized that this will be one off my biggest job of my career. You will understand this after I describe our food department.  

First the kitchen:
                          The main  kitchen had a 2400 square meter air conditioned room for the garde manger, with two walk in cooler , one as big to fit up to 10 Queen Mary carts. The wall separating the hot side was out of glass to oversee it from everywhere.  The  hot side was roughly 5000 square meters with all the equipment going down the middle with one side being the kitchen line to serve the Princess dinning room and enough space for our banquet set ups.  On the other side we got a 5 shelf rotary oven each shelf able to hold 3 roasting pan. the line also include one 60 gallon tilt skillet, three 80 gallon steam kettles and 3 smaller ones and 4 stainless steel table for our food prep. This location are dedicated to the Banquet, Saucier and Entermetier department, each one with there own walk in cooler.  

                            In the corner they built a big chef office elevated by over one meter with windows all around, able to oversee the whole kitchen area. there are 3 desk's, 2 for the chefs and one for a secretary. 

                             Between the main kitchen and the pastryshop was the Steward department located with his own office, two rotary drums to clean silver, large storage places for banquet equipment, and  serving dishes like platters, bowls, mirrors etc.etc.

                             Just a little bit separated was a 2500 square meter pastry shop with 3 stand up rotating ovens capable of accommodating 8 sheet pan each at one time. There was 2 large walk-ins and one freezer. all the equipment to run a pastry shop like stand up Mixers, rolling maschine, proofer and lots of work tables. Beside the famous Pastry chef from Germany Manfred Prim we had over 20 employee  producing all our breads, pastries and desserts for all the restaurants and banquets with only few exceptions like the gourmet restaurant made there own souffles and some specialty ice cream.   

                                A large work elevator brings you to the basement. There was the receiving area, food store room, Butcher shop, Ice room, Infrared walk-in coolers, employees locker rooms, tables and chair storage room for outdoor functions, banquet laundry storage room , a gigantic uniform room,  the factory size laundry room, a well organized recycling room and of course a large security department office  located by the entrance.

                                  In the butcher shop we hired Crattacus, a very experienced butcher. he lost one leg in a accident years ago and to get around in this large kitchen facility he used a regular food service cart to sit on and used it like a scooter. he had 12 butcher helper to supervise and prepared and cut all the meats, fishes and seafood for all 6 restaurants and the banquets. he's job was also cutting and aging all the beef. Hanse Plunke took a trip to a Hermosilla cattle ranch and finalized a purchasing contract. We received every month 100 cattle and the butchers had to separate shoulders, legs, prime ribs, sirloins and fillets, then hang them on meat hooks in a large  walk-in with infrared light for 21 days. This was a huge job but we had first class quality for a third of the regular price. Of course we still had to buy some extra fillets, sirloins and prime ribs to accommodate all the banquets.

 The food establishments:
                         
                                   We opened the hotel with 6 restaurants and the banquet department. There was the main dinning  room, of course called the Princess room, only open for breakfast and dinner. We found Werner Kunz a Swiss chef and he loved his job and spend lots of time training and motivating his employee. He had to feed over 600 people for breakfast and dinner every day. he did on excellent job and very seldom I had to jump in to help. He and his family also become good friends of mine.   
                                   
                                      Chula Vista was a outside restaurant located in a tropical forest surroundings 150 seats under umbrellas and lots of palm trees  made for on unique atmosfair. We served only buffets breakfast, lunch and dinner prepared in the main kitchen, set up by a kitchen supervisor and food runners under Plunkes, the Garde Mangers and my directions.

                                    Then we had a casual 100 seat cafeteria also serving breakfast , lunch and dinner. Definitely the most problematic we had on premises. There wasn't a day where I hadn't to run over there to help them out, main reason was because you cant find a qualified chef, its not exiting to work in a simple cafeteria for them. I totaly agree, I would be the same.

                                     On the first floor overseeing the lighted pools and beach was our 80 seat fine dining establishment serving only dinner. This jewel of a restaurant was run by a very experienced French chef. Francois even wrote the menu, and came up with incredible specials!  Plunke and I had not much to worry about but of course sharing all the great compliments from the happy patrons.

                                    We also had a pool side 40 seat snackbar serving lots of seafood like oysters clams, mussels, shrimp grilled red snapper and also a variety of tacos, tamales, posole, flautas, carnitas and of course Hamburger and Hot dogs. Open from 11am to 7pm daily.

Behind the waterfall is a 20 seat bar, serving also bar food

                                    The free standing Steakhouse La Hacienda was planned and there started construction about a year after the hotel opening. In my opinion La Hacienda was one of the best steak house at that time especially having all that home made dry aged beef! We managed to get a great crew together and it became a absolute success.

                                     The biggest business, as in all resorts, was of course the banquet events.The ballroom could hold up to 1800 people with stage and dance floor. Hans Plunke was able to bring Henry Franz a banquet chef he worked with before at the Fairmont Hotel in Dallas. I have to admit I had not very much experience in banquet cooking before now, but happy me I got teached by one of the best. He was so calm under pressure and never missed a timeline. we worked great together, he was very helpful and even started teaching me to make Ice sculptures. What a great person, I never had to ask him to help me out in the restaurants when there was no banquets, he always volunteered.




                       This picture was taken the day I had to check out the food display on the top floor of the pyramid.  The owner of the hotel Mr. Ludwig and his wife occupied the whole top floor when they came to visit about 3 times a year for a few days. Stressless for us, he flew in medical related food from Dallas every day and got served by his own people.  I just had to make a tropical fruit display and take care of a few special requests.


The kitchen staff organization                                        
                       As you see I had nothing to complain about, a dream job in my view, but most of the time  there is something not quit right. Executive chef  Hans Plunke and I were an awesome team. Nothing really could go wrong with the crew we put together. 

                       And then it happened! After only 6 months Hans had to resign because of personal problems and return  to Dallas. The big change for me started immediately. The upper management promoted the Garde manger Johann Schoepke to the executive chef position. He was a high regarded Garde manger all his career and but lacked some experience to run the whole kitchen operation. As I was afraid off, he spent all his time between the office and the garde manger. He left everything else up to me. Hans and I used to spent time in the butcher shop, Pastry shop, in receiving, help organizing  the steward department, run to the different restaurants, helped on banquets or where ever we be needed. 

                      At this point Henry Franz was the only person I could rely on for help when needed if there were no banquets. I spent 10 hours a day before and now I had to spent 12 hour a day to keep up. I always took Sunday afternoon off and every other Monday. Then we had on accident, one of the 80 gallon steam kettles malfunctioned and tilted,  pouring a boiling beef stock with some fat on top all over my Saucier's lower body. He got burnt badly and was out of work for the next 8 weeks.  Now I had  to spend extra time training another person to produce the stock and sauces for all the outlets. All that work finally affected my health. I started feeling really bad for 2 to 3 weeks and one afternoon I fainted working in the butcher shop. Cratacus called security and they took me to the hospital with hepatitis C.  I had to stay there for 2 weeks and one week at home before I could return to work.

                         I felt great and healthy again especially after the reception I got from all the employees. they all seemed  to be very happy to have me back. My 3 week absence had a good affect on Johann Schoepke, he had to start helping out in the restaurants and other location and he did so after my return and made my life a little bit easier, we became friends and start being a good team again, the time was flying and 2 years later out of nowhere I got called to the hotel lobby. A gentlemen introduced himself as Claudio Silvestri, president of the hotels Fiesta Americana a sister company of America Airline, with 3 hotels here in Acapulco. To make it short, he offered me a Job as corporate chef for the hotels. Wow, an offer I could not refuse. I did give my 2 weeks and spend the next 10 days going to goodby parties. On September first 1975 I started my new job at the Fiesta Americana Hotels.
The fiesta Americana Hotel
Condesa del Mar

Before I finish with the chapter of the princess hotel, I have to express one thing . The 3 years I worked there impacted my career for life. I was so lucky to work with these professional people, each specialized in their area where there been responsible for. Leaving there I knew I could handle and make profit for any hotel in the world. Also my biggest job ever was in the Princess. 4000 travel agent from the USA planned one dinner together. 2000 guest stayed with us and 2000 where placed in 6 large hotel downtown. On one night they planed dinner together in the Acapulco Convention Center. Johann and I had to coordinate with the 6 other chef’s a Mexican buffet. We made each one responsible to produce two items. It needed 22 lines to be able to serve from both sides. During the day I went there and set up each buffet table with cardboard decals marked with the Items to place there so each and every buffet looked the same, and it made it very easy for the 22 food runner.

                   A gigantic event, great success, satisfying and definitely a self confident builder.
                        

 Lobster bisque
8 servings


2 each 3.5oz lobster tail
1 lb raw shrimp
4 oz onions chopped
3 oz carrots chopped
3 oz celery chopped
2 oz olive oil
3 tbs tomato paste
3 tbs all purpose flour
1 jar clam juice (8oz)
1 cup red wine
1 quart water
3 each Knorr shrimp bouillon
2 cup heavy cream
2 oz cognac
black pepper, paprika, bay leave
3 oz sour cream for decoration

Cut lobster tails long wise in halve and and peel raw shrimp keeping the shells (use the shrimp for something else) saute lobster tail and shrimp shells in olive oil together with Onion, carrots and celery. Ad tomato paste and mix well over heat, add flour and mix.
Ad red wine, clam juice, water and shrimp bouillon. Let boil for 3 minutes and remove the lobster tails. Remove meat from lobster tail and set aside and return shells to the bisque, let simmer for 10 minutes and ad heavy cream. Let simmer for 10 more minutes and strain the bisque.
Before serving ad cognac and diced lobster meat.
Decorating with sour cream. (optional) 



BON APPETIT 










Sunday, February 3, 2019

A SWISS CHEF'S CAREER: THE GOOD, THE BAD, THE YUMMY (10)



CHAPTER 10

                     It was June 1970 and the host country for the World Cup was Mexico. My Boss was German and of course was able to book the whole German team inclusive their wife's in the Hotel Maralisa. Needless to say, the Swiss chalet had to wait for my attention  and for 4 Weeks I spend full time at the Maralisa. I remember at that time England was my favorite Team but of course the circumstances changed my mind and I rooted for Germany. It was on exciting time with the press here and meeting all the players. Beckenbauer and Muller where the most famous ones. I was very busy to take care of the big entourage but the team itself brought in their own chef. That made my job easier and I just had to help him with the food ordering. 
                            

                              Once the World Cup started all the player moved to Leon were they had the first games. Most of the entourage and wife's stayed back at the Maralisa.  The team got us, my boss and I great  tickets to all the games Germany played. Of course I could not afford the travel to Leon, but we went to one against England. Yes it was a great, exciting game and Germany won 3 to 2. 

                               Again I realize that all this is part of the benefit to become a chef. There is always something exiting going an around you and you meet some great people. Just to let you know, Germany eventually lost against Italia and Brasil won the World Cup.  

Restaurant Swiss Chalet in Acapulco

                                I finally got to the Restaurant Swiss Chalet and El Patio.  In my mind the Swiss Chalet had a great kitchen crew. I saw one problem, way to many regular boring  menu item and not one really related to SWISS . That was easy to solve for me. Specifically, the # 1 Swiss national dish  to organize. First of all I had to go out and buy some Fondue dishes and in a short 4 weeks Cheese fondue was #1 seller in the restaurant. With a few more additions like diced Veal in mushroom cream sauce, bratwurst and roesti, schnitzel with morel sauce , homemade salad dressing etc,  something still was missing. Desserts!! They had been non existent.  I found out why, there was no location to produce desserts, there was no pastry shop.

El Patio beside the restaurant Swiss Chalet
                                 
                                Also  El Patio served no pastry. It was right outside the Swiss Chalet, a wide open 60 seat garden restaurant with only umbrellas offering some shadow. The food offering was mostly authentic Mexican food like ceviche, posole, carnitas, carne asada tampiquena, tacos, huachinango, chile rellenos, enchilada, mole etc.  Again a great kitchen crew and very nice service personnel in Mexican costumes. 

                                  At that time I had a long conference with Mr Harbich and phone calls to the headquarters in Houston. Two days later I was permitted to hire Xaver Odermat from Switzerland as Executive Pastry chef and to my surprise he accepted. Now I had to hurry and convert a large existing room in to a Pastry shop with walk- in cooler and freezer. Also machinery like Dough roller, mixer, steam kettle and Convention oven. The rest of the necessities I decided was up to Xaver to buy when he arrives.
                                  Xaver was amazing! He arrived with Trudy his wife and seemed to be very happy to be here. He hired him some help and start producing tasty, beautiful, state of the art desserts for all 4 establishment. He was an instant hit for the company and of course I could take some credit too.
I always went to work, teach and  help out were  it was busiest 
                           
                                  At about that time Teddy Stauffer approached me to start a restaurant at our own, close to the Hotel Villa Vera. We called it Teddy's Hideaway. We had a piano Bar with Jack Trommer playing every night . The restaurant had a unique setting, the main floor with 6 large tables and the rest of the tables on different levels with view of the Acapulco bay on a 50 yard hill full of tropical plants.  It was sensational but a pain in the neck for the servers. I made a very limited menu easy for two cooks to handle on a busy night.                        
This was the billboard on the street below the Hotel Villa Vera

our first attempt  promoting the restaurant

                 Note:                  
                              I am sorry for the poor quality of all the photos at the time in Acapulco. In actuality I took a lot of Slides in that time, unfortunate I lost them all on my move to the USA. Most of the photographs you see where given to me by friends.

                                  Like the name of the restaurant suggest it was hidden and not easy to find, but with all the followers of Teddy the restaurant was packed  every day from day one. Henry Kissinger was my first famous customer. He came with a whole entourage and secret service. Two of the secret agents even watched me cook their dishes!

                                  There where lot of movie-stars who spend vacation in Acapulco at that time and they all came to see Teddy.  My favorite was John Wayne, he stayed for two weeks. During the day he went fishing on his yacht and later he brought me his catch to prep for him and his people. It was just a great satisfaction to have a conversations about food and fishing with a gigantic super star like John in my kitchen. Again I was happy that I choose cooking as my profession. 
My first fresh shark to dress and cook

                                   It was also a great employment to see how my Parents loved the attention they got from all these people and I was glad being able to give them that experience. 

                                   My two year anniversary in Acapulco was close and everything was going great in my life and career,  but just in a few hours it again changes even to the better.                                                             
                                  Three gentlemen came to the restaurant for dinner and after they invited me to their table. It was the GM , the food and beverage manager and Executive chef from the Princess hotel under construction. It should open end of 1971 and was already recognized as #1 hotel in the world. It is unreal but they offered me a chef job as of right now. Needless to say two weeks later I started my new job at the princess. A whole new experience! But  that comes in my next chapter.

Huachinango Veracruzana




                        2 each  1 to 1.5 lb Red Snapper
                                                      Clean and scale the fish without cutting off the head or tail with                                                              a sharp knife score the fleshy part on both side of the snapper.

                        1 tbsp    olive oil
                        4 tbsp   butter
                        1           medium Onion sliced
                        1/2        julienne of red pepper  
                        1/2        julienne of yellow pepper 
                        1/2        julienne of green pepper
                        1 tbsp   chopped fresh garlic
                        1 tbsp   Tomato paste
                        1 cup     peeled and sliced fresh tomatoes 
                        2 tbsp    capers
                        1/4 cup  white wine
                        1/4 cup  clam juice or chicken stock
                            salt , pepper, lemon juice and chopped parsley
                       Season fish with salt, fresh black pepper, lemon juice and a little Worcestershire 
                       Saute red snapper in olive oil and some butter golden brown on both side
                       add white wine and simmer fish for a few minutes

                        In a separate pan saute Onion, peppers and garlic
                        ad tomato paste, capers and clam juice or chicken stock  
                        Simmer for 2 minutes and ad the tomatoes
                        ad to the cooked Snapper and serve with the peppers on top and chopped parsley               

Enjoy





                                 






Tuesday, January 29, 2019

A SWISS CHEF'S CAREER: THE GOOD, THE BAD, THE YUMMY (9)




Chapter 9

                        
                         Sometime I have the feeling that nobody really  understands what it takes to be a Chef. I believe most people adore famous TV chefs. Let me clarify these characters are no chefs, they are TV Stars. Agree their  food mostly looks spectacular but you could not produced it in a regular establishment and be profitable. Its all entertainment! And some of them even give us chefs a bad reputation.    (We are calm and collective at all time even under pressure!)

                          My last entry was 8 months ago because last summer I was very busy with landscaping around our house,  world cup,  vacations in Florida and Switzerland  and during the holidays (Christmas confectionery).
                         There are three reason wile I am back now. First I had encouraging discussion with some friends and family members, second it is winter and freezing cold with snow and ice outside,  third I like our new office set up inclusive my new companion Alexa!
I finally find some motivation again to continue my blog about my career path!

our deck, to cold to go outside 

our new office

                                       
                               Okay, here we go, I was sleeping in a great room on the top floor at the Warwick hotel in Houston for over two weeks like a hotel guest using all the facilities like restaurants and pool all for free. I was informed they had some problems with Immigration and it was impossible for them to get me a work visa like promised. I was not allowed to work, occasional I went to visit the chef and his crew in the kitchen.  If you think I enjoyed that time your are wrong I actually felt miserable and thank God for Marieteres Odermatt who came by when ever she had time and show me a lot of the town inclusive of taking me to see the Houston Astros in the Astrodome! She made my wasted time there much easier and I still be thankful for that.
                               After two weeks the general manager called me to his office. He was very apologetic and informed me of the Impossibility to get a work visa for me in the near future!  He also payed me some cash for the last two week even though I didn't lift a finger. He made me two offers!
One was giving me a airline ticket back to Zurich and the other was to take over as corporate executive chef position for the Warwick corporation in Acapulco Mexico. I remember my heart was pounding of enjoyment!!  Only then I found out that the Warwick Corp. had Hotel Maralisa, Hotel Villa Vera, the biggest outside Restaurant in Acapulco "El Patio" and the Restaurant Swiss Chalet!
                               Coming here to Houston I was offered a Sous chef job and after 2 weeks without working I got promoted to corporate chef . Unreal, but it was happening, luck was on my side. Two days later I was on a plane to Acapulco with a work visa for 6 months and I was the happiest dude in the world.

Acapulco , Mexico


It was December 1969  and stepping out of the plane in Acapulco a 95 F degree wind hit me in the face and I realize I was the first time in the tropic! It felt wonderful. Something else hit me, everybody was speaking Spanish. I could not understand a word. My luck didn't stopped here. My new boss general manager Karl Harbich was German. He met me at the Airport and drove me to the hotel Maralisa where I get assigned a beautiful hotel suite,  my habitat for the next 2 years.

Hotel Maralisa, Acapulco

                              The next morning I was finally standing in uniform in a kitchen after 3 and a half weeks off. My crew was small, only 12 people and only one was speaking broken English.   
The maitre d of our dinning room came to my rescue. He spoke perfect English and helped me every day with the translating of my food ordering, menu writing, scheduling and teaching me Spanish! I remember learning fast and in a short 2 months I could handle it comfortable on my own! Right of the back I was very successful. My crew teach me authentic Mexican food, but the tourist where more interested in international gourmet food. I introduced  different theme buffets, special wine dinners etc, etc. We start getting lots of walk-ins beside all the hotel guest.

Saturday night buffet at the Hotel Maralisa 1970 
on my right is sous chef Pedro Suarez


After 3 months the management ask me to start making changes in the other establishments.
                  I promoted Pedro to head chef and started working at the Hotel Villa Vera.


Hotel Villa Vera

                       Since  Villa Vera was about a mile away my boss gifted me his old VW Beetle. I remember being surprised and very happy having some wheels to get around. To me it was amazing
how helpful and generous all the people here in Mexico were.
                       I checked  out Villa Vera 3 or 4 times before  on my day offs. It seemed to me the kitchen was working good and there was Paul Read a young chef from Canada  for the past 6 Months.  Paul and I got along great and I knew I will have a easy time to implement changes to the food there.
                      Not exactly what happened! Just at the same week I went there Paul was notified about problems at home in Canada and he had to leave immediately. So from on easy it went to a very difficult job. Villa Vera was a exclusive, high class and very expensive establishment. I knew I could not handle it with just kitchen helper. I needed professional help in there. With my boss permission I called my best friend Heinz in Switzerland and 2 weeks later he was here and became the chef in the hotel Villa Vera and my assistant overall.
                       The hotel was managed by Houston Warwick company but was owned by Teddy Stauffer a famous band leader from Switzerland who used to be married to Hedy Lamarr.  He adored what I did to the food in his place and he let me invite my parents from Switzerland for over a months vacation absolutely free of charge for room and board in his villa in Acapulco right beside the hotel. 
Episodes like that is one other reason to become a chef and like it! Even my brother came to see me in Acapulco and enjoy the vacations

Teddy Stauffer on the right and Jack Trommer his pianist on the left
Teddy's villa in the background

                          There was another happening worth mentioning at that time. Paul Read was the owner of a Triumph 900 motorcycle. It was not in best shape and would never make it all the way to Canada. He had to fly home and he give me his motorcycle for a few pesos. 

I  enjoyed that bike few months before I had to junk it!


                                Heinz and I upgraded or changed all the menu items. We left some Mexican flare. The boss even let me buy some new serving dishes and our customer loved it.                            
                                My friend Heinz did a fabulous job for me  and only a few weeks later I could engage my professional attention to the Restaurants Swiss Chalet and 'El Patio' .
                             
                   Lots more to come about  my career in Acapulco in my next chapter.

                    It is time for my recipe and since we are in the Hotel Villa Vera this is the dish with record sales at  the pool bar-restaurant.


SEAFOOD CAMPECHANA VILLA VERA

         
            2 cup diced white fish (grouper, flounder, red snapper, sole etc)
            1 cup diced scallops
            1 cup diced cooked shrimps
            1 cup lumps of cooked King crab meat
            1 cup diced lobster meat

     Mix fish and scallops in a glass bowl and cover with pure lemon juice. 
Let marinade for at least 6 hours or over night.

                Sauce

            2 cup finely diced Onion
            2 cup diced peeled fresh tomatoes
            3 each finely diced Serrano or jalapeno peppers . ( more if you like it spicy hot)
            1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
            6 oz tomato juice
            6 oz seafood cocktail sauce

 Strain fish and scallops from lemon juice and ad to sauce
 add rest of seafood to sauce 
 Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve

BON APPETIT